"Basic" Materials
• A table or drawing board. This can be a drafting/drawing table (just make sure it's sturdy though, as erasing, and just leaning on it will cause it to wobble if it's cheaply made), or even a masonite clipboard (you can get large ones, up to 19"x19", for about $12 dollars at most arts and crafts stores). If you're going to draw from a portable source, make sure it's something you feel comfortable holding. Remember: your arm will be wrapped around it for support, so if you have a giant clipboard, your arm will start to hurt. Also, I'd recommend saving the backing of old drawing pads, that you can slip behind new pads for added support.
• Pencil(s). Quick lesson: HB denoted pencils are about as dark as your standard No. 2 that you used in grade school. All other pencils denoted with the letter "H" (2H, 4H, etc) mean that the lead is harder, and thus appears lighter on the page. The higher the number, the harder/lighter the lead. All pencils denoted with the letter "B", are softer, and thus darker (and smudge more) on the page. That being said: I recommend a 2H drawing lead for most of your work. Just remember though, that it will be lighter when you draw, so try not to press too hard (this will leave indentations on the paper). The main reason for using a lighter pencil to do our initial sketching with, is that it give you more freedom. You can do loose, rough sketches, then a tighter, clean sketch over it with a darker lead pencil (for this, I recommend a 2B), or you can ink over the light pencils (we'll discuss inking later).
• Eraser(s). Obviously a must, especially since specialty art pencils (like above) don't come with built in erasers. But that's okay, because the pink pearl is out! Well, for me anyway. I prefer (and recommend) the Staedtler White Vinyl Eraser. Or really, any white plastic/vinyl eraser. They don't dry out like the pink pearls do, they are sturdier, and don't smudge as much. Also, most artists will swear by a Kneaded Eraser. They certainly have their uses (I'd recommend getting a small or medium one, as they do last a long time, and the large ones are just overkill. Also, always keep it in a ziploc/plastic bag when not in use, as this will prolong it's life). I personally tend to lose my kneaded erasers constantly, which is why I don't rely on them as much as other artists do, but I would still recommend one.
• Pencil Sharpener(s). This is one of the harder categories to 'pin down'. I would definetly recommend a good electric sharpener for home use (a plug in kind, not the battery operated ones). But you don't need to go hog wild and get one of those $80 models. A cheap $10 one sharpens just as well. But you need one for portability, and that means a manual sharpener. General (the makers of the "Kimberly" pencils linked above) actually makes a pretty good metal sharpener, but there's no shavings recepticle, which means you need to be over a garbage bin. Still, at $.79, it's not a bad idea to keep one handy. But the best portable sharpener I found was a $.99 sharpener at a local candy store! It's just impossible to predict what you'll find where, but I usually recommend against the cheapie candy/dimestore supplies, as they are usually more trouble than they're worth.
• Rulers. Notice I didn't put the 's' in parentheses. You WILL need more than one ruler. The first of which, is a T-Square. Named as such, because it's designed to go to the edge of the paper, and form a perfect parallel (great for borders and comic panels). I would recommend an 18" T-Square, if you're planning to work in comic book size (11"x17"). Even if you're not, it's always better to have the ruler exceed the edge of the page. The second ruler I'd recommend is the Alumicutter. It's a straight edge (you might hear artists say that instead of ruler sometimes, especially since not every 'ruler' is actually ruled). I would recommend a high quality 18" straight edge anyway, but the Alumicutter has a few neat features (and is not really any more costly than any other quality straight edge). It has a rubber foot, so that it won't slip, and on one side, not only does it have a beveled inking edge, but it has a metal 'insert' that allows you to use an exacto knife against it (for cutting accuracy, again this will be explained later) without damaging the ruler.
• Compass. This is essential for drawing circles of various sizes, and most go up to 6"-10", which should be more than you'll ever need. I recommend a bow compass. There are also "bar compasses", but those are more for drafting and working with HUGE circles. I also recommend going for a better compass (rather than the cheap dimestore compasses), because not only are they sturdier, but ones like the one I linked to also have a ruling pen (which is EXTREMELY handy, as most pens don't fit in any compasses). Also, the cheap compasses tend to slip as you're making your circle, even with tighteners/fasteners. A decent drafting compass holds it's angle.
• Paper. I saved this for last, because out of all the basic materials, this is the most personal, by preference. My personal favorite of all time is Borden and Riley's Artist Sketch Vellum. I swear by this paper. It has a nice tooth (considered a low tooth paper, it's almost smooth to my touch), it has good color, and the weight is perfect. It comes in 32lbs or 96lbs stock (paper weight is determined by how much 5000 sheets weighs. So heavier paper means a better stock). This paper is great for standing up to a lot of erasing and sketching, and it holds ink well, so you can ink right on the paper. For comic work (as opposed to sketches) I recommend the 96lbs stock, because large black areas can warp when inked. This paper is a great alternative to the commonly used Bristol 3ply that many comic pros use. There is also Bristol Vellum available, but in my opinion, you're paying more for really not much more. It is only 100lbs stock and costs considerably more. Size is up to you. I like the 9"x12" for pinups and sketches, and I have a block of 12"x18" for comic work (I have to cut it down to 11"x17", which is why I recommend the Alumicutter). Unfortunately, most standard papers don't come in 11"x17" pads/papers. You usually have to get either 12"x18", or 14"x17". So for comic work, you will be cutting the paper down (see? You'll thank me for recommending that Alumicutter).

"Advanced" Materials
• Triangles. I personally recommend the Alvin Triangles. You can buy different sizes/angles individually, and even as a set they're not that expensive (although I'd say at most you'll probably only need up to the 8" size). I recommend the Alvin's because they are tinted, and have a beveled inking edge. Triangles serve several purposes, other than giving you an accurate angle. Coupled with a T-Square (when put flush against the edge) you can create perpendicular lines. For comic art, it's very helpful for ruling out panels (especially with an unorthodox page layout). They also double as a smaller straight edge (since I recommend getting the larger T-Square and Alumicutter).
• French Curves. You've probably heard of them, and wondered what they were, and what makes them French. Heck if I know. But I got a set one day, and found out that they are actually quite handy. I can't recommend any specific brand (althought I include this link just so you can see what they look like). I would recommend any curves that have a beveled inking edge. They work exceptionally well when it comes to drawing curves in perspective, but they also work for rounded objects that only partially appear in an image (like a table). Considering that they aren't really expensive (you can get a set of 8 for $10), any creative artist can find other uses for them, and any artist will realize they are a very helpful tool.
• Pens. This starts the 'inking' portion of this tutorial. At some point, you'll want to add some depth to your art. Pencil shading is great, but if you're doing anything like Comic art, or Ciaroscuro shading, or anything that relies on hatching or feathering, or solid blacks. Heck, ANYTHING really, can be inked. Since pens are a natural extension from pencils, these will likely be your first foray into inking. Art pens though, do come in many sizes and thicknesses. For starters, I recommend Pitt Drawing Pens. Black ink, of course. I particularly recommend the brush pens, as they are cheap, last long, have india ink consistency, and are a great segway from pen to brush inking. Some people recommend Pigma Pens from Micron. Again, they are not bad, but are about 50% more expensive than the Pitt pens. Ultimately though, you want decent ink flow (and waterproof ink), so you might have to experiment with various brands of pens. Get various sizes (at least 2), and I'd recommend the thicker sizes. While the thin ones maybe fine for drafting and the like, they don't add much character to a drawing (which is the whole purpose of inking), and they often don't scan well. Ultimately, you'll want to get ink and start with nibs, which is probably the *best* segway between pen inking and brush inking. Eventually you'll want to get into brush inking too, as that adds the most depth and character to your drawing (but don't lose the pens, as you'll still probably need them for technical and/or small drawing details).
• Ink. India Ink is the best drawing ink you can get. BUT, not all india inks are created equal. The best ink I've ever found was the Windsor & Newton India Ink (make sure it's india ink, and not their waterproof black ink. They are two different inks). India ink is waterproof by nature. That's why some lesser black inks try to market being waterproof, but that doesn't make them india ink. Since the W&N India Ink seems hard to find, I also recommend Pelikan black india ink (which can be much more easily found in your local art store). Avoid buying 'store brands' (although I will be trying the dickblick India Ink soon, as they tend to make good products), but any no-name brands are off-limits. They tend to be severely watered down. If you get hunkered with such a product, leave it on a safe shelf overnight with the top off. You may need to do this two nights. Basically, to evaporate some of the "useless liquid" and make the ink denser. If you're using nibs or technical pens (the expensive refillable kind), many people will swear by Speedball India Ink. My own experience is with Koh-i-noor, which is decent (and usually comes with the technical pens), but found it only to be 'just okay'. I do know Speedball is a little denser, but has a better flow than the Koh-i-noor ink. Pelikan ink though, will work well (and better than the Koh-i-noor), however it is more designed for brushwork, so make sure you keep the pens clean or they will clog up fast (although that applies to the pens regardless of which ink you choose).
• Brushes. I saved this for last in the "Advanced" section because, much like the paper, this is also a severe matter of personal preference. Some people prefer Windsor & Newton's Cottman 111 (size 3 or 4). The truth is, there is no 'best' brush. Most artists will swear by a genuine sable hair brush, but the quality of synthetics almost rivals real sable nowadays. Size is important, as it relates to control (although a well practiced inker can ink tighter with a size 4 brush than a neophyte, or even an intermediate with a size 2. I would recommend a size 2-3 at most to start with. (or get both, and use the size 3 to fill in large black areas). The advantages to synthetics are: Price, definetly. at anywhere from $1-$4 a pop, they are definetly 'disposable' (a pro inker will spend up to $24 dollars or more on a single brush, but they take immaculate care of them and get several years work out of them). For us "less skilled", I'd recommend the cheaper synths. Even one that you merely wash out after using (and keeping warm water next to you to dip the brush into periodically while working), you can still get 6+ months out of them (and that's if you ink regularly). Many places like "Michaels" have big brush sales. You can regularly get some decent synthetic brushes for under a dollar sometimes. Stock up! When I start the inking tutorials, I will go into brush care a little bit more indepth.